MEET THE CHEF: Gary Loiselle of Dufour at the Stage House Inn in South Berwick, Maine

BY 5 REASONS TO VISIT® EDITORIAL STAFF

May 2021 • 3 min read

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5 Reasons to Visit® sat down with Executive Chef Gary Loiselle of Dufour at the Stage House Inn in South Berwick, Maine.

Executive Chef Gary Loiselle of Dufour at the Stage House Inn in South Berwick, Maine

Where did you grow up and where have you traveled to that has helped inspire and shape your cooking philosophy? 

Growing up on the coast of Southern Maine and New Hampshire, seafood has always been a big part of my culinary adventure. I didn’t grow up eating much from the sea, however I’ve really learned to appreciate the beauty of the sea and the flavors it provides us as cooks and diners. Traveling around the country has helped to shape my cooking philosophy, but the biggest inspiration for me has been through the cooks and chefs I have had the pleasure to work with. In my career I’ve worked with cooks from many different parts of the world, and I love finding both the similarities and differences in our cuisines. I love the idea that food is limitless.

Dufour at the Stage House Inn in South Berwick, Maine

Tell our readers an interesting fact or two about yourself.

I grew up on the seacoast and have very little interest in lobster. I have prepared lobster rolls for two U.S. Presidents in my career. I appreciate the beauty of lobster, it’s just not really my thing. I have also executed two dinners inspired by colonial times which were cooked entirely over an open hearth from the 17th century. The events were held in a tavern originally built in the late 1600s!

Tell us about your absolute favorite food and why readers should try it if they haven’t already.

I would say my favorite food (outside of coffee) would be doughnuts. They are the perfect vessel to enjoy all flavor and texture profiles. You can make them sweet or savory. They can pair well with herbs and other aromatics. You can fry doughnuts or bake doughnuts. They can be yeast raised and nurtured over time or done quickly with leavening agents. The possibilities of a doughnut are endless and I love to push the envelope to see how far I can go with them. Plus, doughnuts just make you happy.

Dufour at the Stage House Inn in South Berwick, Maine

What are three ingredients that you simply couldn’t live without? 

Three ingredients I couldn’t live without would be salt, eggs and the pig. Salt just brings everything to life and I love adding a little extra salt to my desserts as well. I love the balance between salt and sweet. Eggs are important for numerous reasons, but without eggs we wouldn’t have mayonnaise. And the pig—well, pork brings us so many amazing cuts, textures, richness and flavors.

We love the art behind plating. What do you love about designing the perfect dish?

I love the entire process and how much thought goes into creating a dish. When I write a menu or come up with an idea for a dish, I’m not only thinking about flavors—but also textures, colors, first impressions (for the guest) and finally a couple of ways to plate the dish. I typically prepare the dish the first time and then get the team involved in how the dish is plated as well as how the dish eats. I typically plate a dish 4-5 times before it makes its way on the menu just to make sure as many senses as possible are reached. I feel it’s important to have the whole team involved when plating a dish and believe that each dish represents us, not just me.

Dufour at the Stage House Inn in South Berwick, Maine

Tell us about one of the most creative dishes you’ve created?

The most creative dish I have made recently was a dessert. We make our own ice cream here at Dufour and one day a few weeks ago I made a white chocolate-thyme ice cream that just had the perfect balance between sweet, richness and savory. Thyme is such a delicate herb and works so well in dessert. I served the ice cream with a toasted cornflake cookie, marshmallow sauce and bittersweet chocolate. I love to balance sweet and savory in desserts while adding ingredients you wouldn’t traditionally think of for dessert. It really awakens the taste buds.

Dufour at the Stage House Inn in South Berwick, Maine

Share your most recent awards and accreditations with us! 

I haven’t won any awards recently, however when I was a young up and coming cook we did win the 4-diamond award at a fine dining restaurant where I was the sous chef. I’m excited to hopefully add a new award here soon at Dufour! I am very proud of our team and the direction we are going.

What are some of the latest trends you’re seeing in top restaurants across the globe?

Transparency in where the food being served comes from is big! Here at Dufour I strive to support as many local farms and producers as I can. Some things still need to be brought in from around the country or even the world for both quality and consistency, but it is so important to build the relationships with farmers, fishermen/women and local harvesters to keep that sustainability, amazing quality and especially the story at the forefront of everything we do.

What’s your favorite cocktail or drink of choice?

My favorite cocktail is gin and soda with a lime or a glass of bourbon neat. Nothing too fancy, as I like to let the natural flavors of the liquor speak for themselves. There is something very beautiful in the work done by distillers.

What do you love about being the Executive Chef at Dufour at the Stage House Inn in South Berwick, Maine?

My favorite part of being the Executive Chef at Dufour at the Stage House Inn is the team. The crew we have in both front and back of the house is what makes us able to do the things we are doing. It takes everyone to run a successful restaurant, not just a talented chef, and without everyone we have here and have had in the past we wouldn’t be as successful as we are. I love the people I get to work with every day and I feel that shows to the customers who come in to dine here. Our staff is professional but relaxed. You’re able to learn and grow that way. We make each other better.

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