MEET THE CHEF: Corbin Mathany of Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions in Victoria, British Columbia

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Jun 28

We sat down with Executive Chef Corbin Mathany of Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions in Victoria, British Columbia. Since opening in 2023, Ugly Duckling has made its mark as one of Vancouver Island’s best and most innovative dining experiences.

best restaurant in victoria bc — Image: Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions in Victoria, BC

With menus that change with the seasons, the Ugly Duckling currently offers two experiences: a three-course prix-fixe menu, and a six-plus-course tasting menu.

1. Tell us about what your morning routine looks like, and how you like to end your day?

This is going to sound like a cliché, but I swear it’s true –most of my days start at the farmer’s market. Victoria has this great market –the Root Cellar– that amalgamates produce from all of the small organic farmers in our region; and it enables us to source really beautiful, seasonal produce all in one place. Obviously it would be easier to have things delivered, but we have really exacting standards –when asparagus was in season, for example, we only wanted the thick, straight stalks with really firm, closed tips.

Going to the market gives me the opportunity to be picky, and to hand-select produce that meets with our standards. It’s also a great opportunity to see what’s coming into season, and to gain inspiration for the menu. If I’m at the market and something exciting has just come in from the farms, there’s a very real chance that the menu’s changing that night.

2. Do you have any awards or achievements you’d like to mention?

Since opening early last year, we’ve been honoured to be named Victoria’s best new restaurant by YAM Magazine, and shortlisted for Canada’s best new restaurant by Air Canada EnRoute. Food Network named us one of 10 Canadian restaurants deserving of a Michelin star. This is the first restaurant I’ve ever opened, and I’m wearing a lot of hats (aside from cheffing) that I’ve never worn before. Everything, from the wine list, to the design, to the service, has my fingerprints on it. I’ll admit to being proud of the recognition we’ve been able to garner as a team; particularly given my relative newness to so many areas of the operation.

3. Do you have a favorite chef that you look up to and what advice would you give to aspiring chefs?

I’ve been inspired by so many great chefs at this point in my career that it’s tough to choose just one. I’m a fanatical collector of cookbooks; and studying the approaches of the greats is one of my happiest obsessions. I think my greatest inspiration, though, is Will Guidara. He’s a dining room guy, not a chef, but his book Unreasonable Hospitality articulated an approach to hospitality that's really resonated for me –coming to understand that great food is just one tool in creating an experience; and that the ultimate goal is to make guests feel cared for, seen, and ultimately delighted, was pivotal for my career –and I think that approach is ultimately what’s helped to set Ugly Duckling apart from its peers. As for advice to young chefs; never let yourself believe that you’ve got it figured out.

It’s so tempting to believe early on that you’ve learned all you’ll ever need to know, and I do think that the competitive atmosphere of a kitchen makes young cooks feel pressured to act like they know it all –but stay open and be super intentional about learning and expanding your perspectives. I look at what I was doing five years ago and I’m shocked by how much my cooking has evolved. I sincerely hope that five years from now I’ll have the same feeling about what I’m doing today. Never stop striving.

4. What do you typically cook at home?

Honestly, I don’t. I wish I did, but I live at the restaurant more-or-less. My pantry’s all breakfast cereal and instant ramen. If I have enough time off to enjoy an actual meal; I’m most excited to go out and experience what other chefs are cooking.

5. What’s a food trend that you’re loving right now and why?

I try to avoid trendiness like the plague. My favourite restaurant experiences are some mix of celebration-of-place, and expression of a chef’s individual perspective. I want an experience that I can’t have on another block or in another city. By definition, being trend-conscious and trying to move in the same direction as everyone else puts you on the march to sameness. I just don’t think that’s good for anyone, least of all the guests.

6. What’s the strangest food combination you’ve ever tried? And, did you like it?

I once had miso ice cream as an element in an apple dessert. It was a revelation; and it changed the way I look at sweets. Salty, savoury notes are underrated in sweets; and sweetness is underrated in the savoury kitchen. I will tell you, though, that I tried to eat that same ice cream in a bowl without the rest of the elements, and it was exhausting. Too much salt, too much umami. A tiny quenelle paired with the sweetness & acidity of the apples though? Magical. It’s all about balance.

7. Have you ever cooked for a celebrity? Do you have a story to tell?

I went to culinary school back East at a place called the Stratford Chefs School. Stratford is a big theatre town, and a lot of big-name stage actors would roll through during the summer. I cooked for Andrew Lloyd Webber at least a few times; and the Canadian actor Colm Feore (from Chronicles of Riddick and Thor) was actually a student in a series of cooking classes that I was fortunate to help instruct. He’s a kitchen knife fanatic; and he taught me everything I know about knife sharpening. I’m still waiting for Bradley Cooper to walk through the door though. If anybody knows him, please let him know that he eats free at Ugly Duckling ;)

8. What’s your Instagram so readers can follow you?

It’s @chef_corbin — but I hardly post there. Most of the interesting things I find myself involved in wind up on the restaurant’s account: @ugly.duckling.dining

9. What cocktail or beverage do you enjoy most?

I really like a Negroni. Bitter, sweet, and textural. Some things are a classic for a reason.

10. Tell our readers why they should visit Ugly Duckling?

I think that most of us travel to experience the uniqueness of the places we’re visiting. We’ve built a whole restaurant around our obsession with the magical place we live. Victoria is culinarily, culturally, and historically unique. I think I do a pretty good job of interpreting all of that through my own lens and translating it into a delicious and engaging dining experience.

And it’s absolutely, positively, unique. We’re also hospitality-obsessed; and I think we provide warmth and welcome in a way that many fine dining restaurants don’t. Long story short; Ugly Duckling is a one-of-a-kind way to experience a one-of-a-kind place.

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