MEET THE CHEF: Emmanuel Calderon of SALT at the Four Seasons Resort in Anguilla, British West Indies
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We sat down with Executive Chef Emmanuel Calderon of SALT at Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla in West End, Anguilla.
Source: Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla
Where did you grow up, and where have you traveled to that has helped inspire and shape your cooking philosophy?
I grew up in Mexico and am a native of the Yucatan peninsula. During my childhood, I was lucky enough to experience living in different regions within the country. I spent the earlier part of my life in Mexico City, later moved to the north in Monterrey, and then to Nuevo Leon where I returned to the southern peninsula area, the area I grew up in, Cancun.
Prior to making my way to Anguilla, I worked at a number of Four Seasons in North America and Central America, including properties in Seattle, Santa Barbara, Scottsdale, Mexico City, and Dallas. In addition to kitchen task force roles in Los Angeles, Santa Fe, Baltimore in the USA, Punta Mita in Mexico, and Costa Rica.
Prior to joining Four Seasons I used to work for cruise ships which afforded me the unique opportunity to explore countries in the Mediterranean Sea and experience different cultures in Coastal Europe, Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Croatia, Montenegro, Turkey, and the North of Africa in Marrakech.
My travels have influenced my identity as a chef and as a person, those experiences further developed my understanding of not only different cooking styles, but also how different cultures come together to eat and the social importance of dining.
Source: Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla
Tell our readers an interesting fact or two about yourself.
I did not know I wanted to be a chef until after my 20’s. I consider my passion for cooking like a relationship. I started very young without knowing anything about it, I needed a job, so I ended up washing dishes when I was 14 years old. It wasn’t until this experience that I developed a deep appreciation for and interest in cooking. After a few years in the field, I had cultivated a passion and love for it and knew it was what I needed to pursue. To this day, I am as interested in cooking and curious about global cuisine as I was all those years ago and my love, knowledge, and commitment to this work continues to grow. If I could go back and choose my career again, I wouldn’t change a thing. My cooking style is bold and spicy, and I believe this is a reflection of the many delicious and tangy flavors found in the foods of my heritage but also of the many cuisines I derive inspiration from.
Tell us about your absolute favorite food and why readers should try it if they haven’t already.
Cochinita Pibil is a very emotional dish for me. It brings back memories of my friends and family back home. From a culinary perspective, the dish is very delicate, unique, and humble. It is rife with flavor and the combination of natural ingredients and traditional cooking methods truly brings out the textures and aromas that make this dish so wonderful. To properly capture the essence of Cochinita Pibil, a few essential ingredients from the peninsula are required, these include sour orange, black oregano, and annatto seeds, which are not endemic to Mexico but thrive there and are used widely in food throughout the region. The preparation of this dish must start days in advance with the soaking of annatto seeds to use as a marinade for pork along with sour orange. After the pork has been marinated, it is then wrapped with the marinade in banana leaves and slow cooked in and underground oven called a ‘Pib.’ This type of rustic oven must be pre-heated using wood and fire for hours and then, the Cochinita Pibil, is slow cooked over the fire and hot coals. After 6-8 hours of slow cooking, the meat is tender, juicy, and boasts a subtle smokey flavor that, paired with the cooked banana leaves, is simply incomparable. Cochinita is traditionally served with fresh tortillas and, another classic of the Yucatan peninsula, simple salsa made with cured red onions, sour orange, and lots of habanero chili, called ‘Xnipec,’ a word derived from the Mayan language.
Source: Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla
What are three ingredients that you simply couldn’t live without?
Habanero chili, lime and corn!
We love the art behind plating. What do you love about designing the perfect dish?
I love to create a clean and harmonious dish that is balanced in color and placement on the plate. I like to use only a few garnishes to let the main ingredients be the star of the show.
Source: Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla
Tell us about one of the most creative dishes you’ve created?
It’s hard to choose just one, as every dish I create has been a favorite of mine at different points in my life; however, one of our best sellers at Four Seasons Anguilla and a dish I loved creating is Crayfish and Oxtail Risotto. This dish is a take on a traditional surf and turf but instead, it is prepared with two of the most popular proteins on the island.
We are lucky enough to have amazing fresh, local seafood from the island, most notably, Crayfish, and when prepared in a delicate broth, with fennel, a classic mirepoix, tomato, and herbs from our garden like tarragon and Thai basil, it is delicious. We set aside the fresh Crayfish tails to later flash cook them in rice for a couple of minutes to maintain the sweetness of the meat and their delicate texture.
On the other hand, the Oxtail is slow cooked in a rich red wine beef broth flavored with endemic seasoning peppers—one of my favorite ingredients for its citrusy flavor and outstanding aroma, seasoning peppers are quite similar to habanero peppers in shape, but they are lighter in color and not spicy at all. Once the meat is tender, falling off the bone, it is pulled and slow cooked for a few more minutes in its own juices, a roux is then added, and finally we form the croquettes and cover them with breadcrumbs to be deep fried for a crispy exterior.
Arborio rice is traditionally cooked, adding the Crayfish broth and white wine, once the starches are developed, a pinch of chili flakes is added to be followed by the fresh tails, out of the fire is finished with butter in lime zest. Lastly, grilled broccolini florets contrast the white and red colors of the rice; golden crispy oxtail croquettes are add. To finally be dress with moringa oil, hemp seeds and grilled lemon juice. Little white moringa blossoms and green leaves are the final touch to this island dish.
What is one of your greatest accomplishments and/or recent awards you've earned?
For me, cooking is love, it is the medium through which I have been able to show love and care for others. My biggest accomplishment is ensuring the well-being of my loved ones through the success of my career. It is because of my work as a chef that I have been able to help support and set an example for my siblings, see them attend college, and earn degrees. This has been my most gratifying accomplishment.
Additionally, I have opted to be a nomadic Chef throughout my career and recognition has not ever been a huge priority, it is not what drives me to do this work. However, a goal of mine was to one day be revered in Mexico for my culinary talents and in 2012, I was ranked amongst the “Top 10 chefs Under 30” in the country’s national culinary competition. This was monumental for me, and it meant a lot to achieve this in my home country.
What are some of the latest trends you’re seeing in top restaurants across the globe?
Sustainability, approachable menu items that are familiar but also fresh, and healthy eating. People are demanding cleaner dining options from culinary destinations across the board. I see the global culinary space making a return to more conscious and meaningful eating.
What’s your favorite cocktail or beverage of choice?
While not necessarily a cocktail, I am a huge beer fan, particularly of IPA’s!
Source: Four Seasons Resort and Residences Anguilla
What do you love about being the Executive Chef of SALT at Four Seasons Resort & Residences Anguilla in West End, Anguilla?
First and foremost, my team. I am so fortunate to be surrounded by so many talented locals with a natural culinary expertise that runs in their blood. My team cares greatly about and takes immense pride in the food we put out into the world, and it is reflected in our kitchen dynamic. Through humble ingredients, precious lessons are learned. I’ve learned to work with island produce, which basic, root vegetables, ripe fruits, and super foods like cactus leaves, purslane, sweet potatoes, pigeon peas, Callaloo.
I also enjoyed the unique beautiful beaches and the ocean bounties that Anguilla has to offer like the endemic petit lobster or Crayfish.
I take pride in having forged a relationship with local farm producers, as well with local Chefs that I have the pleasure to collaborate. Lastly, the connection with the culture of the island and its philosophy to enjoy life.
Note: This information was accurate when this article was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
